Sunday, October 11, 2009

Today was a good day.


We (a few other ETAs) started out around 11, in search of a restaurant the girls had read about that served American-style breakfast food all day. So we got on the Sky Train, walked around looking for “Bourbon Street.” Inevitably got lost, called the restaurant, and found our way in. It was decorated, well, Bourbon Street style and we all very much enjoyed our hash browns, pancakes and omelets.

Then we decided to head over to China Town, a section of Bangkok notorious for its traffic and crowds. We had some difficulty finding a cab willing to take us there, but finally we found Kom. Kom entertained us during the 15-minute drive by practicing his English with us. He told us he was from the Isan region, told us he was a “bad boy” taxi driver (and then animatedly pretended to erratically jerk the wheel about) and translated his name for us (Magic. Of course). He gave us his phone number as we got out, saying “airport, airport,” with a huge smile on his face. It completely peeled away any anxiety we had felt after haggling/arguing with other potential taxi suitors.

We got out at a Chinese wat (temple). It was small and definitely designed in a traditional Chinese (rather than Thai) style, but the colors and statues were incredible, and the incense and chanting combined were powerful. Great experience.

We then wiggle our way out onto the streets (perhaps alleys would be a better term) of China town. Everything was crazy and crowded, but the smells and sights were incredible and more than made up for any discomfort we may have felt, temperature-wise or personal-space-wise. The exotic offerings – food and otherwise – made for a unique, hectic experience that I enjoyed. It had a more cluttered, claustrophobic air than Chatuchak Market did (that was yesterday, stories and photos to come), but also a slightly more authentic and gritty vibe.

After checking out the random assortment of goods (from fish to cell phones to incense) available at China Town, we headed towards the river to get on a boat taxi. The dock was, um, flexible? We were a little intimidated by the sharp rising and falling of the platform, but all was well and we cheerfully hopped into our boat taxi. Riding on the river was fantastic – we got to see new parts of the city. It also enabled me to connect with Bangkok in a new way – aquatically. Water has a strong effect on me in a calming sense, and its presence soothes and comforts me instantly. It was a gentler, softer side of Bangkok I had not yet experienced, and its impact was serene.

We got off the boat taxi in search of a canal boat to take us to our next destination: Golden Mount. Upon recognizing our repeated failures, we opted for a cab and headed to the Mount. The Mount is a temple perched on top of a hill that sits above much of Bangkok, and offers a 360 panorama of the city for miles and miles. On the hike up (comprised of steps far too small and close together for ease in ascension – I swear this city is the first place that has ever made me feel large) there were bells that you could ring with a satisfying, deep dooooing. The significance was lost on me, but I enjoyed the activity nonetheless.

The view from the top was breath-taking. A huge golden stupa topped off the building, and Thais sat in front of it, wai-ing and praying quietly. Others walked around the stupa in a circle, their faces serious yet peaceful, and their hands fully but delicately pressed into a wai of pious devotion. We took our shoes off before entering the Wat (as you do at all wats – Thai culture has a strong aversion to feet, I’ll delve into this later) and the effect of walking barefoot around the stupa was grounding, if that makes any sense at all (I think I’m getting a bit carried away with my vocabulary, forgive me). From certain angles you could see the modern, Western side of Bangkok, characterized by skyscrapers, megamalls and bustling intersections; while at others, the older, more peaceful side of the city came into view: the colorful temples with their curved roofs, ancient stone stupas and standard Thai houses. Guess which view I preferred? J The experience left me hungry to learn more about architecture and Buddhism, and again, made me feel connected to Bangkok in a new, more peaceful way. Hitherto my interactions with Bangkok have been hustle and bustle, at times overwhelming in the raw power and energy of the city. The Mount gave me a better literal and figurative perspective on Bangkok – one that I appreciated very much.

As we were leaving the Mount, we were trying to get a cab, which again proved more difficult than expected. A group of monks (immediately identified by the vivid orange robes they wear) walked by. One of them approached me, and in perfect English said – do you need any help? Flustered and terrified of making a culture/monk gaffe (what could be worse than a monk gaffe? I might as well give the finger to the whole country and its entire, ages-old culture while whistling America the Beautiful), I stammered something about wanting a cab. He smiled, asked me where we wanted to go. At this point we had more or less worked out the cab business, so I again, awkward as can be, told him. He, thankfully, realized we were fine and started to walk away. I smiled and said “kop khoon ka” (thank you) and did my best, most anxious wai. He smiled back and walked off, with the three other monks who were waiting for him a ways off. I looked closer and realized they were children, young boys maybe 9 or 10 years old. It dawned on me that in being so kind and helpful to foreign strangers, he was setting an example of compassion and generosity to his youthful companions. My respect for him grew and I smiled. There was something profound and impressive about that moment that I can’t quite quantify yet. It struck me.

We made our way back to our dormitory around 6, but a few others and I were starving, so we set out in search of street food. We were apparently too early for many places, and decided to veer towards our favorite nearby market, in front of National Stadium. Alas, it was closed. So I bought two skewers with chicken on them for 10 baht (roughly… 3 cents?) to curb the crankyness-inducing pangs and we walked back to our area and grabbed dinner.

The whole walk there and back, we talked about how great our day was, and how lucky we were to see so much of the city. My only regret is that in my rush/idiocy, I forgot to put my battery back in my camera and so, I have no pictures to document my great day. Hopefully I’ll snag some from my homies, and will be able to describe with something other than unnecessarily ornate language.

Moral of the story? Today was a good day.

2 comments:

  1. awesome :) sounds like you guys were all over the place. I do want to see some pictures sooner or later :P Monks are cool. In Italy I remember cracking up at a Franciscan monk driving around in a little pickup truck. I dunno why it made me laugh. buddhist monks probably seem a little less incongruous than the franciscan ones tho.

    also, 3 cent chicken! man....

    - diana

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  2. This is the only time you've felt big? Really?

    Watch your monk etiquette. I don't want you starting any international incidents. Also, your vocabulary issues aside "monk gaffe" is somehow going to work its way into my regular conversation.

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